Anomalous wave statistics following sudden depth transitions: application of an alternative Boussinesq-type formulation
Paul A. J. BonarColm J. FitzgeraldZhiliang LinTon S. van den BremerThomas A. A. AdcockAlistair G.L. Borthwick
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Abstract:
Abstract Recent studies of water waves propagating over sloping seabeds have shown that sudden transitions from deeper to shallower depths can produce significant increases in the skewness and kurtosis of the free surface elevation and hence in the probability of rogue wave occurrence. Gramstad et al. (Phys. Fluids 25 (12): 122103, 2013) have shown that the key physics underlying these increases can be captured by a weakly dispersive and weakly nonlinear Boussinesq-type model. In the present paper, a numerical model based on an alternative Boussinesq-type formulation is used to repeat these earlier simulations. Although qualitative agreement is achieved, the present model is found to be unable to reproduce accurately the findings of the earlier study. Model parameter tests are then used to demonstrate that the present Boussinesq-type formulation is not well-suited to modelling the propagation of waves over sudden depth transitions. The present study nonetheless provides useful insight into the complexity encountered when modelling this type of problem and outlines a number of promising avenues for further research.Keywords:
Kurtosis
Rogue wave
Boussinesq approximation (buoyancy)
An efficient numerical method for calculation of the sea surface skewness and kurtosis for arbitrary wave spectra, taking up to third-order nonlinear effects into account, is developed. The skewness and kurtosis are calculated for a large number of sea states, covering a wide range of sea-state parameters in terms of wave steepness, water depth, directional spreading and frequency bandwidth. The results are used to propose new accurate expressions for skewness and kurtosis, valid over a wide range of sea states. Existing expressions for skewness and kurtosis reported in the literature are reviewed, and their accuracy is evaluated. Comparison to model-test results and phase-resolved numerical simulation are presented. It is suggested that the new improved parametrizations for skewness and kurtosis, which include dependence on wave steepness, water depth, spectral bandwidth and directional spreading, represent a convenient way to include these covariates into higher-order distributions for crest heights, wave heights and surface elevation.
Kurtosis
Crest
Parametrization (atmospheric modeling)
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