Contribution of Infragravity Waves to Run-up and Overwash in the Pertuis Breton Embayment (France)
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Wave run-up and dune overwash are typically assessed using empirical models developed for a specific range of often-simplistic conditions. Field experiments are essential in extending these formulae; yet obtaining comprehensive field data under extreme conditions is often challenging. Here, we use XBeach Surfbeat (XB-SB)—a shortwave-averaged but wave-group resolving numerical model—to complement a field campaign, with two main objectives: i) to assess the contribution of infragravity (IG) waves to washover development in a partially-sheltered area, with a highly complex bathymetry; and ii) to evaluate the unconventional nested-modeling approach that was applied. The analysis shows that gravity waves rapidly decrease across the embayment while IG waves are enhanced. Despite its exclusion of gravity-band swash, XB-SB is able to accurately reproduce both the large-scale hydrodynamics—wave heights and mean water levels across the 30 × 10 km embayment; and the local morphodynamics—steep post-storm dune profile and washover deposit. These findings show that the contribution of IG waves to dune overwash along the bay is significant and highlight the need for any method or model to consider IG waves when applied to similar environments. As many phase-averaged numerical models that are typically used for large-scale coastal applications exclude IG waves, XB-SB may prove to be a suitable alternative.Keywords:
Overwash
Beach morphodynamics
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Infragravity wave
Abstract : LONG-TERM GOALS. The long-term goal of this program is to understand the processes that determine the erosion/accretion rates and patterns on a steep, porous beach face for a wide range of incident wave conditions. OBJECTIVES. The objective of this project is to relate incident wave conditions and the resulting foreshore morphology response at Waimea Bay, a steep pocket beach on the north shore of Oahu, Hawaii. The run-up variability, characterized using Argus video imagery, will be compared to offshore and breaking wave heights. The resulting picture of incident wave forcing will be related to three-dimensional morphology changes determined using high resolution RTK-GPS (Real-Time Kinematic GPS) surveys. The results from this high energy, reflective beach will then be compared with observations from more dissipative beaches. We seek to determine whether characteristic beach parameters are useful for categorizing and understanding swash zone morphodynamics for high energy environments.
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Proceedings of the Fourth Conference on Coastal Dynamics, held in Lund, Sweden, June 11-15, 2001. This collection contains 109 papers detailing the state of the art in the physical aspects of coastal and inlet environments. It provides a valuable source of information from the latest research to the newest engineering applications. Topics include: effects of coastal structures, wave properties in shallow water, nearshore sediment transport, wave-current interaction, planform modeling, breaking waves, inlet morphodynamics, long waves, suspended sediments, nearshore wave modeling, morphodynamic modeling, inlet hydrodynamics, inlet sediment transport, rip currents, ripples and bedforms, nearshore circulation, micro-scale processes, regional studies, nearshore bars, shoreline and transport modeling, long-term morphodynamics, swash hydrodynamics, beach nourishment, swash and graded sediments, cross-shore response, monitoring, intertidal processes, and rhythmic features.
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Morphological monitoring of swash bars at different temporal scales was carried out in the southatlantic Spanish coast between Chipiona and Rota. As a result, the main morphometric and morphodynamic characteristics of more than 60 bars were determined. The differences between this type of bars and the classic ridge and runnel were also pointed out. Bars associated with dissipative beaches appeared to be flat, with no siginificant avalanche face. Bars associated to low reflective beaches presented a better development while bars associated to rocky shore-platform beaches showed similar morphologies to those of low reflective beaches. Inner sedimentary structures of bars in dissipative beaches showed laminae parallel to the beach face. When the bars were located at the upper beachface, the avalanche faces showed clear foreset laminae. In this environment, morphodynamics is controlled by different processes depending on wave characteristics, bar form and water level fluctuations during tidal cycles. The temporal distribution of bars is marked by a higher frequency in spring, and lower one in autumn.
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