The physical simulation of wave groups and their variations in a wave flume
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Wave flume
Flume
Wave shoaling
Wave height
Airy wave theory
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Wave flume
Wave shoaling
Wave tank
Kinematic wave
Airy wave theory
Flume
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Previous studies on wave-induced pore pressure in a porous seabed mainly focused on non-breaking regular waves, e.g., Airy linear waves or Stokes non-linear waves. In this study, breaking-wave induced pore pressure response in a sandy seabed was physically simulated with a large wave flume. The breaking-wave was generated by superimposing a series of longer waves onto the foregoing shorter waves at a specified location. Water surface elevations and the corresponding pore pressure in the process of wave breaking were measured simultaneously at three typical locations, i.e., at the rear, just at, and in front of the wave breaking location. Based on test results, characterization parameters are proposed for the wave surface elevations and the corresponding pore-pressures. Flume observations indicate that the wave height was greatly diminished during wave breaking, which further affected the pore-pressure responses. Moreover, the measured values of the characteristic time parameters for the breaking-wave induced pore-pressure are larger than those for the free surface elevation of breaking-waves. Under the action of incipient-breaking or broken waves, the measured values of the amplitude of transient pore-pressures are generally smaller than the predicted results with the analytical solution by Yamamoto et al. (1978) for non-breaking regular waves with equivalent values of characteristic wave height and wave period.
Wave flume
Flume
Wave shoaling
Wave height
Wave loading
Seabed
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The wave characteristics affecting coastal sediment transport include wave height, wave period and breaking wave direction. Wave height is a critical factor in determining the amount of sediment transport in the coastal area. The force of sediment transport is much more intense under breaking waves than under non-breaking waves. Breaking waves exhibit various patterns, principal- ly depending on the incident wave steepness and the beach slope. Based on the equations of con- servation of mass, momentum and energy, a theoretical model for wave deformation in and outside the surf zone was obtained, which is used to calculate the wave shoaling, wave set-up and set- down and wave height distributions in and outside the surf zone. The analysis and comparison were made about the breaking point location and the wave height decay caused by the wave breaking and the bottom friction. Flume experiments relating to the spilling wave height distribution across the surf zone were conducted to verify the theoretical model. Advanced wave maker, data sampling de- vices and data processing system were utilized in the flume experiments with a slope covered by sands of different diameters to facilitate the observation and research on the wave transformation and breaking. The agreement between the theoretical and experimental results is good.
Surf zone
Wave flume
Wave height
Wave setup
Wave shoaling
Flume
Significant wave height
Shoaling and schooling
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Sinusoidal wave generation in shallow water produces higher order free waves. These high frequency free waves are responsiblefor wave height fluctuation in a wave flume. The wave height fluctuations are measured on a sloping bottom, and shown to be explained by KdV models. These high frequency waves also affects wave breaking and wave heightdecay after breaking, since phase difference between primary waves and second order free waves causes significantchange in local wave profile. Role of phase difference is confirmed by a series of experiment with varied slope locationrelative to wave maker
Wave shoaling
Wave flume
Shoaling and schooling
Wave height
Sine wave
Flume
Rayleigh Wave
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For the design of vertical hydraulic structures pulsating wave forces need to be calculated. The total wave force is a result of every wave component (long waves and short waves) within a wave field. The common formulae are derived for regular or unimodal narrow sea states and use one characteristic wave height and period. Broad-banded spectra like bimodal sea states are present at many locations. Moreover, new hydraulic structures like Panamax or post-Panamax locks do have a large vertical surface exposed to pulsating wave loads. Swell components within the wave spectrum are disproportionally contributing to the total wave force compared to short waves. This depth effect for broad-banded or bimodal wave spectra is not considered by the traditional wave formulae which could result in significant underestimations of wave forces on hydraulic structures. This paper aims to determine the wave loads of irregular non-breaking wave fields under any wave spectrum: narrow banded, broad-banded, or bimodal. Spectral linear wave theory (LWT) is used to transform any wave spectrum to a wave force spectrum. The wave force or wave pressure at any level can directly be evaluated from the wave force spectrum or wave pressure spectrum for any shape of the wave spectrum considered within this research. Spectral LWT is compared to the outcome of wave flume experiments with bimodal seas and other wave force formulae, like the Goda formula and quasi-regular LWT and the NewWave theory. This paper gives a description and evaluation of the spectral LWT applied for bimodal wave spectra and a comparison of the accuracy and validity of other wave force formulae. The peak forces and peak pressures distribution obtained by spectral wave theory compare well to the measurements. It appears that the use of a spectral LWT to obtain characteristic extreme forces improves the accuracy of the extreme load more than the use of a second order wave model with a quasi-regular assumption (i.e. where the spectral shape is not considered). For the typical conditions that occur at hydraulic structures (horizontal bed, intermediate to deep water, non-breaking, and uni- and bimodal seas) the often-used Goda formula can both under of overestimate the peak loads. Goda is well applicable for conditions with (breaking) waves narrow wave spectra and values of kph <0.5.
Wave flume
Airy wave theory
Swell
Wave height
Wave shoaling
Electromagnetic spectrum
Wavenumber
Significant wave height
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Simulations of three-dimensional numerical wave tank are performed to investigate wave force acting on a large cylindrical structure and consequent wave deformation, which are induced by bore after breaking waves. The numerical model is based on the three-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations with a finite-difference method combined with a volume of fluid(VOF) method, which is capable of tracking the complex free surface, including wave breaking. In order to promote wave breaking of the incident wave, the approach slope was built seaward of the structure with a constant slope and a large cylindrical structure was installed on a flat bed. The incident waves were broken on the approach slope or flat bed by its wave height. In the present study, all waves acting on the large cylindrical structure were limited to breaking bore after wave breaking. The effects of the position of the structure and the incident wave height on the wave force and wave transformations were mainly investigated with the concern of wave breaking. Further, the relations between the variation of wave energy by wave propagation after wave breaking and wave force acting on the structure were discussed to give the understanding of the full-linear wave-structure interactions in three-dimensional wave fields.
Wave shoaling
Airy wave theory
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The wave characteristics affecting coastal sediment transport include wave height, wave period and breaking wave direction. Wave height is a critical factor in determining the amount of sediment transport in the coastal area. The force of sediment transport is much more intense under breaking waves than under non-breaking waves. Breaking waves exhibit various patterns, principally depending on the incident wave steepness and the beach slope. Based on the equations of conservation of mass, momentum and energy, a theoretical model for wave deformation in and outside the surf zone was obtained, which is used to calculate the wave shoaling, wave set-up and setdown and wave height distributions in and outside the surf zone. The analysis and comparison were made about the breaking point location and the wave height decay caused by the wave breaking and the bottom friction. Flume experiments relating to the spilling wave height distribution across the surf zone were conducted to verify the theoretical model. Advanced wave maker, data sampling devices and data processing system were utilized in the flume experiments with a slope covered by sands of different diameters to facilitate the observation and research on the wave transformation and breaking. The agreement between the theoretical and experimental results is good.
Surf zone
Wave flume
Wave height
Wave shoaling
Wave setup
Flume
Significant wave height
Shoaling and schooling
Wave tank
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Within the surf zone which is the region extending from the seaward boundary of wave breaking to the limit of wave uprush, breaking waves are the dominant hydrodynamics acting as the key role for sediment transport and beach profile change. Breaking waves exhibit various patterns, principally depending on the incident wave steepness and the beach slope. Based on the equations of conservation of mass, momentum and energy, a theoretical model for wave transformation in and outside the surf zone was obtained, which is used to calculate the wave shoaling, wave set-up and set down and wave height distributions in and outside the surf zone. The analysis and comparison were made about the breaking point location and the wave height variation caused by the wave breaking and the bottom friction, and about the wave breaking criterion under regular and irregular breaking waves. Flume experiments relating to the regular and irregular breaking wave height distribution across the surf zone were conducted to verify the theoretical model. The agreement is good between the theoretical and experimental results.
Surf zone
Wave flume
Wave setup
Wave shoaling
Wave height
Flume
Shoaling and schooling
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In the third report, it was described that Laitone's cnoidal wave theory of the secondapproximation agrees well with the experimental results for the wave profile, wave ve-locity and wave length in the case of small water depth-wave length ratio. This paperdeals with finding of the limiting condition for application of the cnoidal wave theoryby comparing with both Stokes wave theory of the third order approximation by Skjelbreiaand the experimental results for the wave velocity and wave crest height above still waterlevel in the case of relatively large water depth-wave length ratio.In addition, the reason why Skjelbreia's solution has been adopted as the most pre-ferable Stokes wave theory here is explained.
Wave shoaling
Airy wave theory
Crest
Wave height
Cnoidal wave
Significant wave height
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