Rafaël Almar

Laboratoire d’Études en Géophysique et Océanographie Spatiales

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Co-Authors

Erwin W. J. Bergsma

Centre National d'Études Spatiales

Bruno Castelle

Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux

Nadia Sénéchal

Université de Bordeaux

Rodrigo Cienfuegos

Research Center for Integrated Disaster Risk Management

Luís Pedro Almeida

Université d'Abomey-Calavi

Donatus Bapentire Angnuureng

University of Cape Coast

Grégoire Abessolo Ondoa

University of Douala

Patricio A. Catalán

Federico Santa María Technical University

Thierry Garlan

Service Hydrographique et Océanographique de la Marine

Edward J. Anthony

Centre de Recherche et d’Enseignement de Géosciences de l’Environnement

Cooperative Institutions

Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique

232

Institut de Recherche pour le Développement

114

Laboratoire d’Études en Géophysique et Océanographie Spatiales

Université de Toulouse

Université Toulouse III - Paul Sabatier

Université de Bordeaux

Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux

Delft University of Technology

Ifremer

Centre National d'Études Spatiales

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Urban Beach Evolution in Saint Louis, Senegal (West Africa) using Shore-Based Camera Video Monitoring as a Management Tool

Regional Studies in Marine Science (2025)

Amadou Diouf Cheikh Omar Tidjani Cissé Rafaël Almar Baba Sy Boubou Aldiouma Sy

Video monitoring

10.1016/j.rsma.2025.104050

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A new breaking wave height direct estimator from video imagery

Coastal Engineering (2011)

Rafaël Almar Rodrigo Cienfuegos Patricio A. Catalán Hervé Michallet Bruno Castelle

Wave height

10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.12.004

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Citations (51)

Topographie 3D satellite (Pléïades) : Application à l'évolution côtière de la Langue de Barbarie

Adélaïde Taveneau Rafaël Almar Erwin W. J. Bergsma Abdoulaye Ndour Boubou Aldiouma Sy

La compréhension de la morphologie est limitée par le manque de continuité entre l'échelle locale (vidéo, drone), et l'échelle régionale : les nouvelles technologies peuventelles répondre à ce besoin ?La ville de Saint Louis, située à l'embouchure du Fleuve Sénégal, et séparée de l'Atlantique par la flèche sableuse de la Langue de Barbarie, représente un lieu phare de la vulnérabilité littorale liée aux changements climatiques, et aux enjeux socio-économiques sur la scène internationale.Les satellites Pléïades (CNES/Airbus) ont une résolution de 1 m rééchantillonnée à 0.5 m, et peuvent couvrir une zone de 350 km*20 km.Une reconstruction topographique à partir de ces clichés est donc réalisable par méthode de tri-stéréogrammétrie, avec le logiciel Ames Stéréo Pipeline (ASP) développé par la NASA.Des séquences rafales (vidéo) de trois à dix images de la Langue de Barbarie (dT ~ 8s) sont acquises tous les 6 mois, et nous offrent une vision inégalée de la dynamique sédimentaire de la zone.Cette méthodologie a déjà montré des résultats prometteurs (ALMEIDA et al., 2019) lors de son application sur la côte Aquitaine.

10.5150/jngcgc.2020.034

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Morphodynamic modelling of beach cusp formation: the role of wave forcing and sediment composition

EarthArXiv (California Digital Library) (2020)

Christopher Daly France Floc’h Luís Pedro Almeida Rafaël Almar Marion Jaud

A field of beach cusps formed during a field experiment at Nha Trang Beach, Vietnam, under accretive conditions. The measured data was used to set-up morphodynamic simulations in XBeach, which was able to simulate cusp formation from an initially long-shore uniform beach profile. Several types of simulations were run in order to observe the resulting variation in mean cusp dimensions (length, depth and height), swash flow patterns, and sediment sorting. Both time-constant (JONSWAP) and time-varying (measured) wave forcing conditions were superimposed on the measured tide. In the former, four wave parameters were varied (wave height, period, direction, and spreading), while in the latter, the median sediment size and sediment composition were varied. The wave period was found to primarily influence long-shore length scales, the wave height cross-shore length scales, and obliquely incident waves enhance all these dimensions particularly under narrow-banded conditions. Cusps are not prominent if the wave energy is too low to effect significant onshore transport, if the wave angle of incidence and spreading are too large (effectively smoothing out swash perturbations), or if the sediment is too fine in relation to the wave conditions (dissipative beaches or highly erosive wave conditions). Coarse sediment generally tends to be located on cusp horns above the waterline, but is otherwise variable depending on cross-shore location and tide levels. As the XBeach model results show large agreement with well-established norms, it may therefore be used to more rigorously study processes that help to initiate cusps in future work.

Swash

Beach morphodynamics

Wave height

Significant wave height

Berm

Wave model

Forcing (mathematics)

10.31223/x5ts3x

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The Chile tsunami of 27 February 2010: Field survey and modeling

AGUFM (2011)

Hermann M. Fritz Catherine Petroff Patricio A. Catalán Rodrigo Cienfuegos Patricio Winckler

Field survey

Source

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SWASH-BASED WAVE ENERGY REFLECTION ON NATURAL BEACHES

The Proceedings of the Coastal Sediments 2011 (2015)

Rafaël Almar Raimundo Ibaceta Chris Blenkinsopp Patricio A. Catalán Rodrigo Cienfuegos

Swash

Reflection

10.1142/9789814689977_0070

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Citations (4)

How waves are accelerating global coastal overtopping

EarthArXiv (California Digital Library) (2020)

Rafaël Almar Harold Díaz Erwin W. J. Bergsma Roshanka Ranasinghe Angélique Melet

The world’s coastal areas are home to about 10% of the human population and support unique and dynamic ecosystems, offering € trillions worth of environmental and societal benefits. Climate change and anthropogenic pressures are however exacerbating devastating hazards such as episodic coastal flooding, the magnitudes of which remain highly uncertain to date. This study, for the first time, presents global scale coastal overtopping estimates, which account for not only the effects of sea level rise, storm surge and wave setup as traditionally done, but also that of wave runup and existing coastal protection measures. While the latter are widely recognized as important determinants of episodic coastal flooding, they have hitherto been ignored in assessments thereof. Our results show that the combination of tides and large wave runup events is the main contributor to episodic coastal overtopping. The Gulf of Mexico, northern Europe, Mediterranean region, east coast of Africa, south east Asia, and north western Australia emerge as hotspots of episodic coastal overtopping under the current climate. Future projections of overtopping with the the global mean sea level rise under “business-as-usual” scenario RCP 8.5 indicate that the globally integrated number of annual overtopping hours will increase at a rate faster than that of the global mean sea level rise itself. This study also shows that, under the RCP 8.5 sea level rise trajectory, the projected acceleration in coastal overtopping should be starting about now and will be clearly discernible by about 2050. Global overtopping has increased almost by 1.5 from 1993 by now and will reach values more than 50 times larger by the end of the 21st century. The global projections presented here are anticipated to lay a solid foundation for the development of effective climate adaptation measures at the identified hotspots, ideally through detailed local scale studies.

Coastal flood

Storm Surge

Wave height

Marine ecosystem

10.31223/osf.io/sjqrd

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Correction: Almar et al. Sea State from Single Optical Images: A Methodology to Derive Wind-Generated Ocean Waves from Cameras, Drones and Satellites. Remote Sens. 2021, 13, 679

Remote Sensing (2022)

Rafaël Almar Erwin W. J. Bergsma Patricio A. Catalán Rodrigo Cienfuegos Leandro Suarez

There was an error in the original article [...]

10.3390/rs14133120

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Swash zone dynamics of a sandy beach with low tide terrace during variable wave and tide conditions

Luís Pedro Almeida Rafaël Almar Patrick Marchesiello Rachid Benshila Kévin Martins

A field experiment was conducted on a sandy beach with a low tide terrace (Nha Trang, Vietnam) to investigate the swash zone hydro-and morphodynamics throughout different tide and wave conditions.A 2D Lidar was used to measure runup properties and bed level changes on the swash zone.An energetic monsoon wave event provided energetic conditions during the initial stage of this experiment while mild wave conditions were observed during the remaining days.Swash dynamics were clearly modulated by wave and tide conditions.Preliminary results indicate that wave climate is linked with extreme runup and beach erosion and recovery processes while tide level seems to affect swash spectral signature (dominated by infragravity band during low tide and incident band during high tide) and linked with asymmetrical morphological response of the swash.

Swash

Beach morphodynamics

Surf zone

Plage

Wave model

10.5150/jngcgc.2016.016

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Citations (3)

The Contribution of Wind-Generated Waves to Coastal Sea-Level Changes

Surveys in Geophysics (2019)

Guillaume Dodet Angélique Melet Fabrice Ardhuin Xavier Bertin Déborah Idier

Storm Surge