This Thesis is dedicated to study the hydrodynamic processes associated to the harbour resonance phenomena. The study was focused to the characterization of the transient, non-linear, and coupled effects associated to the forcing mechanisms and to the response of the oscillations outside and inside the harbour facilities.
The aim of this thesis was divided into tree main branches: 1) increase the harbour resonance phenomena knowledge; 2) improve the capacity to reproduce the phenomena through the implementation of an advanced finite-element numerical model, based on the modified Boussinesq equations Nwogu (1993), Liu & Woo (2004); and 3) Integrate the different techniques and tools into a methodology, able to improve the approximation of any future harbour resonance study.
For these, first a spectral analysis has been developed to characterize the infragravity waves at the entrance of short wave field data, second an extensive laboratory campaign was proposed for different degrees of non-linearity and coupled resonance oscillations, and third the numerical model was validated with the laboratory data, as well as data measured in two real harbours, for both atmospheric long wave and bound long wave acting as forcing mechanism, obtaining excellent correlations.
The present study shows a methodology to carry out a comprehensive study of port agitation and resonance analysis in Geraldton Harbor (Western Australia). The methodology described and applied here extends the short and long wave hindcast outside the harbor and towards the main basin. To perform such an analysis, and as the first stage of the methodology, it is necessary to determine, in detail, both the long and short wave characteristics, through a comprehensive methodology to obtain and to hindcast the full spectral data (short waves + long waves, for frequencies between 0.005 and 1 Hz). Twelve-year spectral hindcast wave data, at a location before the reef, have been modified analytically to include the energy input associated with infragravity waves. A decomposition technique based on the energy balance of the radiation stress of short waves is followed. Predictions for long wave heights and periods at different harbor locations are predicted and validated with data recorded during 2004 to 2009. This new database will ensure an accurate and reliable assessment of long wave hourly data (height, period and currents) in any area within the main basin of the Port of Geraldton, for its present geometry. With this information, two main task will be completed: (1) undertake a forensic diagnosis of the present response of the harbor, identifying those forcing characteristics related to inoperability events; and (2) propose any layout solutions to minimize, change, dissipate/fade/vanish or positively modify the effects of long waves in the harbor, proposing different harbor geometry modifications. The goal is to identify all possible combinations of solutions that would minimize the current inoperability in the harbor. Different pre-designs are assessed in this preliminary study in order to exemplify the potential of the methodology.
This work aims to evaluate the ocean wave statistics (i.e., significant height, peak period, mean wave direction, and spectral form) under hurricane events, at any geographical point and coastal location by employing two different approaches. First, by the use of classical fast and mid-accurate analytical engineering tools comparing three classical set of equations (Bretschneider 1990; Young 1988; and the Shore Protection Manual SPM 1984) and their further validation against instrumental data provided by the National Data Buoy Centre (NDBC). On the other hand, by using a high-accurate numerical approach is proposed, using the unstructured-mesh SWAN spectral wave model (Zijlema et al. 2010), comparing the results between the stationary and non stationary approach, and validating the nearshore ocean wave characteristics with measured data at different water depth locations. Both approaches are forced with accurate pressure and wind speed fields obtained with classical and well-known parametric equations (i.e., Holland 1980; Hydromet-Rankin Vortex 1980; and Bretschneider 1990), integrated with the NCEP/NCAP wind fields. Hurricane waves for both approaches are validated with instrumental data from the NDBC measured for hurricanes: Katrina (2005); Gilbert (1998); Mitch (1998); Wilma (2005); and Ike (2008). Comparisons between both approaches have been made. Additionally, user recommendations and a sensitivity analysis about the optimization and design of the numerical mesh are presented, taking into account an efficient design of the numerical finite element mesh of the model, and the optimal spatial distribution of the nodes and elements along the hurricane track. The present study provides an efficient and easy engineering-mathematical tool to evaluate the hurricane induced waves, identifying its application limits and derived recommendations. Moreover, an accurate numeric methodology is here described, which allows to obtain the historical ocean wave data for all the historic events and tracks for North Atlantic and Pacific hurricanes, registered since mid-50's (lat-lon tracks, and central pressures provided by NOAA and the National Hurricane Centre), by improving the hurricane wind fields of any reanalysis database. Finally providing improved knowledge for coastal and harbor design considerations / construction purposes.
Abstract This paper presents a detailed hindcast for the generation and propagation of sea state variables—significant wave height Hs, peak period Tp, mean direction θ, and spectral shape γ –σ —associated with cyclonic events to numerically diagnose their possible hydrodynamic effects over the northeastern Atlantic. An example of such cyclonic events is Hurricane Gordon, which occurred during the second half of August 2012. Extreme hurricane-strength winds produced new and atypically low-frequency (about 14 s) packs of energy. The preexistent wave spectrum suddenly experienced an addition of low-frequency energy along the coast of Cádiz, Spain. This study presents the results of a comprehensive analysis developed to reconstruct the events produced by Hurricane Gordon (2012) along the coast of Cádiz. The analysis features the use of (i) parametric models for the characterization of hurricane winds and pressure fields, (ii) implementation of the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) model for the generation and propagation of waves in the northeast Atlantic Ocean, and (iii) its coupling with the MOPLA—taken from the Spanish acronym for wave propagation model, current, and morphodynamic evolution of beaches—model for the evaluation of longshore currents. The numerical wave characterization, generation, and propagation were validated with instrumental data from deep-water and coastal buoys.
El presente estudio se encarga de analizar el clima maritimo historico en la playa de Campos en la region de Manzanillo (Colima, Mexico), con el objetivo de trasladar la estadistica historica de 62 anos de oleaje horario a la zona costera. El analisis se ha realizado mediante la integracion de diferentes herramientas numericas, medidas instrumentales y tecnicas estadisticas que en conjunto analizan los procesos relacionados con la propagacion del oleaje que se suceden desde las aguas profundas hasta la costa. Esta informacion es susceptible de ser empleada como forzamiento de estudios costeros y portuarios de detalle. La aportacion innovadora de la presente metodologia es la integracion de distintos modelos de propagacion numerica de oleaje, el uso de algoritmos de validacion de los datos de oleaje obtenidos con datos instrumentales, y el establecimiento de una tecnica de hibridacion que permite llevar a cabo una reconstruccion historica del oleaje horario con 62 anos de duracion en la zona de estudio, con tiempos computacionales eficientes y competitivos. La metodologia propuesta facilmente puede ser adoptada como una herramienta metodologica de uso habitual en consultorias tecnicas de ingenieria costera y portuaria. Como ejemplo de la explotacion de las series de oleaje que esta metodologia ofrece, se realiza el estudio preliminar de la evolucion de la dinamica litoral en el corto (dias a semanas) y largo plazos (meses, estaciones, anos y decadas), en la zona del canal Tepalcates, en Manzanillo, antes y despues de su ampliacion.
A new numerical methodology reaching an improved characterization of the historical harbor wave agitation climate is presented in this work. A detailed frequency-direction wave spectrum definition of wave agitation patterns within harbor basins is achieved, providing an in-depth description of the whole multidirectional and multireflective wave patterns occurring as a natural harbor response. This constitutes an advance from the monoparametric/aggregated wave height parameter-based approaches, traditionally used for wave agitation characterization, to a multivariate and disaggregated representation of in-port waves and the multiple wave transformation processes within harbor basins. In addition, the wave agitation spectral type concept is proposed, whereby the wave agitation spectral shapes are classified into representative clusters of the historical wave agitation response in a harbor. A detailed multiannual analysis of the wave agitation response, based on the different in-port spectral wave components, their relation with the outer-harbor forcing waves, and their interactions with the harbor structures, can be achieved with the proposed methodology. This improved harbor wave climate characterization can be especially relevant for port operability and downtime analyses. The methodology is applied and validated in Africa basin (Las Palmas Port, Spain).