While structural erosion or accretion of a coastal stretch is of primary concern to coastal management, knowledge of coastline oscillations on larger time scales relative to the erosional or accretional trend would allow for a more efficient management practice. Our analysis of more than thirty years of observations of dune, beach and nearshore evolution reveals some of the typical oscillatory behaviour in time and space on a decadal scale. We have focused on the behaviour of the duneface and analyzed the possible relation between the duneface behaviour and that of the nearshore morphology. Amongst our results are the findings that the demeaned oscillatory duneface evolution on a decadal scale is not only correlated with the recurrence frequency of the migratory bar system, but also with a cumulative measure of episodic wave events.
Chirp profiles collected on the southern Brazilian shelf were combined with sedimentological and hydrodynamic data to characterize shelf geomorphology, focusing on the development of outer shelf bedforms and their genetic links with major oceanic currents. Outer shelf sediment accumulations are interpreted as two scales of bedforms, such as dunes and sand ridges. In the São Paulo Bight, cuspate bedforms are bounded landward by a geomorphological scarp. The sector between Florianopolis and Mostardas also exhibits frequent asymmetric bedforms, whereas the inner- middle shelf is covered by semitransparent sheets. The southern Rio Grande Cone is characterized by stratified deposits covering vast outer shelf areas. Surficial sediment samples reveal a dominantly muddy composition and relatively high carbonate contents. Hydrodynamic data indicate a major influence of the Brazil Current over the São Paulo Bight. The prolific bedform outer-shelf environment is assumed to be mostly relict formed in a transgressive shallow-water setting. The sand ridges are believed to have evolved from a moribund stage characterized by morphological degradation to a relict stage, with preservation enhanced by fine-grained winnowing, coarse sediment armoring, and early cementation. Bedform migration seems to be occurring on the São Paulo Bight due to the presence of a nearly permanent meander of the Brazil Current. Over most of the inner shelf, the northward advection of sediments mainly led by the Brazilian Coastal Current, has formed extensive fine-grained deposits. The occurrence of a relict shelf scarp may have conditioned the formation of the bedform outer-shelf environment. The vast spatial distribution of bedforms over most of the outer shelf seems comparable with other shelf areas, such as the south African shelf, dominated by the influence of unidirectional oceanic currents. Dune dimensions are lower on the Brazilian shelf, due to their relict character, the geomorphological configuration of the margin, and the scarcity of sand sources.
Special Issue 48 Coastal Geomorphology in Spain: Proceedings of the 3rd Spanish Conference on Coastal Geomorphology, 2006, Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.-- 7 pages, 6 figures, 1 table
2nd Deep-Water Circulation Congress: The Contourite Log-book, 10-12 September 2014, Ghent, Belgium. Session 2: The coupling between oceanographic processes and contourite sedimentation
The 16th International Conference on Harmful Algae (ICHA 2014 New Zealand), Advancement Through Shared Science, 27-31 October 2014, Wellington, New Zealand.-- 1 page
Turbidity, CTD, and temperature and shear microstructure data recorded along a 25 km transect from 8 to 69 m depth across the Ebro Delta shelf (northwestern Mediterranean) are presented.The water column was stratified and prior to the campaign the regional southwest flow was measured to have superimposed diurnal and sub-inertial components.The bottom boundary layer (BBL) at all stations deeper than 20 m has a vertical extension of 3 to 9 m, increasing to 12 m at the deeper stations and even to 14 m at a station at 45 m depth outside the studied transect.The law of the wall was identified at almost all stations with an extension ranging from 40% to 100% of that of the BBL.At some stations high dissipation rates were found in the interior of the bottom layer.The study shows the correspondence between the turbidity contents and the local mixing processes at the BBL and suggests that sub-critical reflection of internal waves could play an important role in boundary mixing.Our data also suggest that during the campaign, after two consecutive short episodes of high winds, the first baroclinic mode shifted to the second one.
Abstract. The morphological changes caused by storm events in two Barcelona beaches were recorded using video monitoring techniques during the period 2001–2006. Changes in shoreline position and configuration and submerged bar position and shape were analyzed during the 25 major storm events that occurred during the study period. Beach responses to storms were grouped into three categories: shoreline advance or retreat (including rotation), sandbar migration and/or configuration change (linear or crescentic shape) and formation of megacusps. This work provides examples of the differential adaptation of both beaches to the same storm and of some unexpected morphological responses of both beaches. The response of the beach to storm events is not straightforward because wave conditions are not the only relevant parameter to be considered. In particular, in such embayed beaches it is crucial to take into account their specific morphodynamic configuration prior to the storm.