This study documents the development of a beach berm and the associated closure of an intermittently open coastal lagoon on a gently sloping beach on the east coast of Australia. The berm grew 1.17 m in elevation over 11 days, and essentially closed the lagoon except at high tide within 4 days after opening. Berm growth was vertical with no notable horizontal accretion in the shore normal direction. Wave runup and overtopping were also measured and overtopping into the lagoon channel was found to be dominated by long waves. Berm development is found to be largely dependant upon swash and overtopping potential. Large overtopping potential at the start of the experiment resulted in substantial sediment transport, deposition and rapid berm growth. With berm growth, overtopping potential ultimately become restricted, reducing the sediment volumes deposited and consequently limiting further berm growth.
Bed sediment, velocity and turbidity data are presented from a large (145 km long), generally well‐mixed, micro‐tidal estuary in south‐eastern Australia. The percentage of mud in the bed sediments reaches a maximum in a relatively narrow zone centred ≈30–40 km from the estuary mouth. Regular tidal resuspension of these bed sediments produces a turbidity maximum (TM) zone in the same location. The maximum recorded depth‐averaged turbidity was 90 FTU and the maximum near‐bed turbidity was 228 FTU. These values correspond to suspended particulate matter (SPM) concentrations of roughly 86 and 219 mg l −1 , respectively. Neither of the two existing theories that describe the development and location of the TM zone in the extensively studied meso‐ and macro‐tidal estuaries of northern Europe (namely, gravitational circulation and tidal asymmetry) provide a complete explanation for the location of the TM zone in the Hawkesbury River. Two important factors distinguish the Hawkesbury from these other estuaries: (1) the fresh water discharge rate and supply of sediment to the estuary head is very low for most of the time, and (2) suspension concentrations derived from tidal stirring of the bed sediments are comparatively low. The first factor means that sediment delivery to the estuary is largely restricted to short‐lived, large‐magnitude, fluvial flood events. During these events the estuary becomes partially mixed and it is hypothesized that the resulting gravitational circulation focuses mud deposition at the flood‐determined salt intrusion limit (some 35 km seaward of the typical salt intrusion limit). The second factor means that easily entrained high concentration suspensions (or fluid muds), typical of meso‐ and macro‐tidal estuaries, are absent. Maintenance of the TM zone during low‐flow periods is due to an erosion‐lag process, together with a local divergence in tidal velocity residuals, which prevent the TM zone from becoming diffused along the estuary axis.
Coastal wetlands are a critical component of the coastal landscape that are increasingly threatened by sea level rise and other human disturbance. Periodically mapping wetland distribution is crucial to coastal ecosystem management. Ensemble algorithms (EL), such as random forest (RF) and gradient boosting machine (GBM) algorithms, are now commonly applied in the field of remote sensing. However, the performance and potential of other EL methods, such as extreme gradient boosting (XGBoost) and bagged trees, are rarely compared and tested for coastal wetland mapping. In this study, we applied the three most widely used EL techniques (i.e., bagging, boosting and stacking) to map wetland distribution in a highly modified coastal catchment, the Manning River Estuary, Australia. Our results demonstrated the advantages of using ensemble classifiers to accurately map wetland types in a coastal landscape. Enhanced bagging decision trees, i.e., classifiers with additional methods to increasing ensemble diversity such as RF and weighted subspace random forest, had comparably high predictive power. For the stacking method evaluated in this study, our results are inconclusive, and further comprehensive quantitative study is encouraged. Our findings also suggested that the ensemble methods were less effective at discriminating minority classes in comparison with more common classes. Finally, the variable importance results indicated that hydro-geomorphic factors, such as tidal depth and distance to water edge, were among the most influential variables across the top classifiers. However, vegetation indices derived from longer time series of remote sensing data that arrest the full features of land phenology are likely to improve wetland type separation in coastal areas.
The hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the swash zone is currently outside the domain of coastal-area models, which is a significant limitation in obtaining littoral sediment-transport estimates, especially on steep reflective beaches where the waves practically break on the beachface. In this study, an existing process-based coastal model (MIKE 21) is combined with a theoretical derivation of swash processes, resulting in an innovative hybrid modelling approach that is capable of estimating longshore sediment transport in the swash zone. The method relies upon estimation of swash hydrodynamics from an extended ballistic swash model with friction included. The terminal bore and other incident wave properties were computed from the output of a spectral-wave model (MIKE 21 SW). The Bagnold-type equation was applied to estimate gross transport volumes and the longshore component was computed for the sand volume displaced during the up-rush. The newly developed hybrid modelling approach was applied to Jimmys beach, a steep reflective beach (D50 = 0.3 mm, gradient=0.1) along the northern shoreline of Port Stephens, Australia. The model results yield the alongshore swash transport pathways and the indicative transport volumes. A point of divergence is identified at the beach erosion area, which is of critical importance in terms of shoreline erosion and management. The preliminary results suggest that swash-zone transport can account for a large percentage of the total littoral drift for such beaches. However, further field or laboratory data are required to test model utility, as well as to tune calibration parameters based on the site-specific conditions.
The existence of sandy beaches relies on the onshore transport of sand by waves during post-storm conditions. Most operational sediment transport models employ wave-averaged terms, and/or the instantaneous cross-shore velocity signal, but the models often fail in predictions of the onshore-directed transport rates. An important reason is that they rarely consider the phase relationships between wave orbital velocity and the suspended sediment concentration. This relationship depends on the intra-wave structure of the bed shear stress and hence on the timing and magnitude of turbulence production in the water column. This paper provides an up-to-date review of recent experimental advances on intra-wave turbulence characteristics, sediment mobilization, and suspended sediment transport in laboratory and natural surf zones. Experimental results generally show that peaks in the suspended sediment concentration are shifted forward on the wave phase with increasing turbulence levels and instantaneous near-bed sediment concentration scales with instantaneous turbulent kinetic energy. The magnitude and intra-wave phase of turbulence production and sediment concentration are shown to depend on wave (breaker) type, seabed configuration, and relative wave height, which opens up the possibility of more robust predictions of transport rates for different wave and beach conditions.
Abstract Beach recovery is key to the continued existence of sandy beaches and is typically driven by the onshore‐directed transport of sediment by short waves during low‐moderate energy conditions. The physical processes governing beach recovery are not well understood, but the theoretically developed dimensionless fall velocity, Ω = H / w s T , was suggested to be important for separating onshore/offshore sediment motion (Dean, 1973). In this paper, the effect of wave period and sediment grain size on short‐wave suspended sediment flux was investigated based on field measurements obtained beneath shoaling and breaking waves at Durras and Vejers beaches. The efficiency of the breaking waves in transporting suspended sediment onshore was roughly the same for the two beaches, despite the wave periods being larger and the mean sediment grain size coarser at Durras beach. The flux efficiencies were, however, shown to be degraded by wave‐current interactions and long/short‐wave interactions at Durras beach, especially. Excluding time series of strong undertow velocities (< −0.1 m/s) and infragravity wave‐energy (>5 m 2 /s 3 ) resulted in significantly larger flux efficiencies beneath breaking waves at Durras beach compared to Vejers beach. These results indicate that wave‐current interactions and long/short‐wave interactions should be taken into consideration along with the wave period and mean grain size when estimating short‐wave suspended sediment fluxes. The results also showed that plunging breakers were more efficient in suspending sediment and transporting it onshore compared to spilling breakers/surf bores. This finding suggests that wave breaker type also is an important parameter to incorporate when modeling beach recovery.
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